Clothing Materials Science-----Basic Knowledge of Clothing (Continued 4)
Fourth, the sewing processing performance The wearing performance of the clothing material should also include the sewing processability, that is, the use characteristics of the cloth in the sewing process, the ease of operation, the seamability and the appearance of the sewing product. Only the fabric with satisfactory sewing processability can be said to have good performance.
(1) Fabric usability In order to meet the needs of sewing processing, the fabric should have certain basic properties such as elongation, lubricity, melt adhesion and tension to prevent cracking. These basic properties are determined by the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric itself. 1. Elongation mainly refers to the elongation of the fabric, the rapid and slow elastic recovery rate. Since the knitted fabric is a fabric having a large stretchability, it is mostly contracted by itself after being spread, which is a cause of difficulty in handling during sewing and a flat corrugated shape of the stitch portion. If sewing with ordinary stitching, the stitching is not easy to break or shrinkage, so a stretchable torsion stitch should be used. 2. Sewing phenomenon Knitted fabrics, especially jersey fabrics, ribbed knit fabrics, double-knitted fabrics, etc., are sewn when sewing or wearing, such as tension in the vicinity of seams and cuts. The phenomenon of seaming not only hinders the sewing operation, but also affects the wearing effect of the garment, so it must be considered and avoided. It can be tested and evaluated with an Instron power machine. 3. Lubricity of fabrics The lubricity of fabrics is an important factor in the usability of woven fabrics. Because in the paving, cutting and sewing projects, the fabric is often displaced due to excessive or too thin lubrication. The direct factor affecting the lubricity of the fabric is the frictional properties of the fabric, and the fabric with a large coefficient of friction reduces the displacement phenomenon, so that the sewing is easy and the sewing process is facilitated. 4. Melt Adhesive The melt adhesion of the fabric is necessary for cutting, so that the multi-layer fabric can be cut without being positioned and accurately positioned. The melt adhesion is essentially determined by the melting point of the fiber, and the knitted fabric and the woven fabric in which the synthetic fiber and the cellulose fiber are blended have different melt-adhesive states due to different blending ratios or different structures and thicknesses. The melt adhesion was visually evaluated by the actual degree of adhesion at the time of cutting. (2) Separability The seamability is a comprehensive evaluation index for the quality of the sewing process. It includes the degree of seaming of the fabric, the seams of the stitches, and the degree of breakage. 1. The wrinkle of the fabric The wrinkle of the fabric refers to the degree of waviness generated by the stitching of the fabric when it is sewn by the machine. It is largely determined by the characteristics of the fabric and affects the appearance and take-up of the garment. The sewing rate and visual rating are generally used for evaluation. 2. Cutting of the bottom thread When the fabric is sewn by the machine, the machine needle often cuts the bottom thread due to the fabric relationship, resulting in poor stitch quality, reduced durability of the clothing, and impaired sewing efficiency. Therefore, it is necessary to evaluate the bottom thread of the sewn fabric. The specific evaluation method is as follows: the two pieces of the overlapped fabric sample which are sewn are cut open from the middle, and the joint is rubbed by hand, and then the number of cuts of the bottom thread within a certain length is read and counted, and the incidence rate of the bottom line of the unit stitch number is indicated. In the knitted fabric, there is also a method of measuring the number of cuts of the bottom thread by using a magnifying glass without using a slit through which the suture passes. (3) Ironing In the sewing process, the garment material should be ironed many times and at multiple locations in order to achieve the purpose of flat, tangible and fit. Therefore, the ironing property of the fabric becomes an important aspect of the sewing processability. The ironing properties of the fabric include heat shrinkage, crease effects, and appearance changes. 1. Heat Shrinkage The heat shrinkage of the garment material is to assess the morphological damage of the fabric after it has been hot pressed. It can provide the dimensional change data of the fabric after shrinking, and prepare and provide guarantee for the sewing cut to meet the specified size. Generally, two indexes of fabric wet heat shrinkage shrinkage rate and steaming shrinkage rate are determined. 2. Crease effect The crease effect refers to the crease effect of the fabric after pressing in the sewing process or pressing after sewing. On the one hand, it depends on the operation skill of the fabric in sewing (affecting the aesthetic effect), on the other hand, it mainly depends on the fiber raw material, the fiber raw material is different, and the retaining performance of the crease effect is also different. In general, natural fibers are easy to iron, but the crease effect is poor, while the chemical fiber is difficult to iron, but the crease effect is good. The method of evaluating the fabric is to give the crease according to the specified conditions and then use the gaze to evaluate the angle, and then cut the small crease from the crease to determine the angle, and calculate the crease effect according to the following formula: the crease effect ( %)=100—wrinkle angle/(180-100)X100 3. Appearance change Appearance change mainly evaluates the aurora appearing on the fabric after ironing by the iron (increased gloss due to the flattened fabric structure), the flatness of the seam (flattening after the outer surface of the seam is pressed), and the change in bending hardness ( The bending performance and hardness caused by the ironing process are mainly style changes). These changes will directly affect the appearance of the clothing and the value of use, should be given attention. The appearance change of the garment material after ironing is easy to appear in the knitted fabric, and in the case of the raw material, it is easy to appear in the heat sensitive fiber fabric such as polypropylene. The evaluation method is: observing the gloss change on the reverse side of the slit and the flat state of the seam by eyesight; and obtaining the bending hardness change rate by measuring the bending hardness and the bending recovery rate. In addition, the evaluation of the sewing processability should also include tests such as joint strength and seam irregularity.Guangzhou Yanzi Textile Co., Ltd. is a comprehensive company integrating design, development and production. Having certain influence and appeal in the domestic market, we have cooperated with more than 1,000 well-known brand clothing companies so far. Moreover, our products are sold well in more than 30 countries and regions including Middle East, Southeast Asia, Europe and America. Our company owns self-support import and export rights and has a domestic professional design team. We mainly produce diversified products such as embroidery fabrics, lace fabrics, jacquard fabrics and knitted fabrics, etc.
Yanzi Textile has a team that is hardworking, passionate and innovative. We are full of vigor and ideal in our work. Good services to our clients is the core goal of our daily work.
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