Dialogue Guo Yirantian: Is the independent designer really "independent"?
It was a pleasant conversation with her. It may be the refreshing character of the young girl after the 90s, or the maturity and thoughts she showed beyond her peers. Although she debuted very shortly, she won the "2016" in April this year. Autumn and Winter Shanghai Fashion Week New Power Award, she is Guo Yirantian, an optimistic and open-minded independent designer.
A: YIRANTIAN designer Guo Yirantian
Q: I am very happy to have a chance to chat face to face with you today. Your name is very interesting. Is it your real name?
A: It is the real name. When parents name their names, they feel that life only lives once. They don't want their children's names to be the same as others. In addition, Dad is engaged in art and hopes to inherit him.
Q: I won the 2016 New Power Award for Shanghai Fashion Week in Autumn and Winter. It is the highest award for young and potential designers. What do you think of the significance it brings to you.
A: I also felt very abrupt when I learned about the award. At the time, I was playing the game. After I learned about the award-winning process and the judges of the awards, I felt very happy to be an encouragement to myself and a big affirmation. I think independent designers are to be encouraged. This is the establishment of confidence in any new debut design.
Mr. Fan Mingxi, Assistant General Manager of Xintiandi, China, presented the brand's Yirantian designer Guo Yirantian with the 2016 Autumn and Winter Shanghai Fashion Week New Power Award
Q: Compared with the designers of the same age, your chances seem to be better. You have not graduated yet, you have also created your own brand and got the domestic development opportunities. All this seems to be quite smooth. Tell us about your debut history, whether it is smooth sailing or a lot of detours.
A: Actually, some people have asked me similar questions before. Now the new designers seem to be quite smooth. In fact, it is determined by the mode of clothing. You design, release, order and then in the next season. If you don't have any negative news, such as gossip, plagiarism. Basically, it will go smoothly. Because behind this, we only offer you a release, an order meeting, and then look at your sales, but behind this every designer will experience: factory, fabrics, supply channels; studio staff turnover; Also guard against infringement issues. From graduating from now to now, I have encountered difficulties in both large and small. It is not that everyone looks so smooth, but I can only say that I am more optimistic and very open. When I was helpful, I was very grateful. When no one helped, I would digest it myself. There will be many opportunities around me. I can grab as much as I can, and I can’t catch it.
When I first went abroad, I was quite confused. There are a lot of unknowns about fashion design, and even how to be a fashion designer. Aesthetics has not been cultivated to a certain height, and it can only be continuously worn and rejoined. Maybe English is my strength. When I went abroad, it became the "scholar" in the eyes of others. Most of the time, I worked hard to study and design in order to compete with myself. At the time of going to school, the design was negated by the tutor. At that time, the age was small, and when I came back, I burst into tears. However, when you pass the hurdle, you can go up the ladder again. Later, the postgraduate study was to find the direction again, and the help for me was quite big, let me see a more comprehensive self. I have been internship in a big-name company, and I have some experience. This is my determination to make a studio. It happened that at that time, Dong Liang found me, I think it is a good opportunity. Then there was the first series. When I came back, I released the works of the 14 autumn and winter series, and I got a lot of recognition, and then I started selling. However, the series of spring and summer 15 suffered a trough, and the sale was not very satisfactory. I also asked the opinions of the surrounding authorities. Sometimes, art and business should seek a balance point. The two must make compromises and compromises. But this is not to give up the original intention, just let yourself constantly debug to a good direction, but also recognize that his character is not so fast to achieve certain goals, step by step will be more suitable for me. Now I want to come to the setbacks at the time, the trough, or the future roads are still very good.
YIRANTIAN2014AW works released in Shanghai Xintiandi
Q: In recent years, the status of independent designers in China has been continuously improved. Many brands have become more and more popular with the banner of independent designers. How do you think about this phenomenon and whether it will affect the development of your brand?
A: I read an article in the previous paragraph, saying that the independent designers are not truly independent. The reason is that production, supply, and sales all depend on others. Therefore, independent designers are not independent. It can only be said that independent designers have their own independent ideas. This is correct. Nowadays, designers who are self-employed, everyone dares to express their own ideas and have confidence in what they have learned. This is quite good. However, it is inevitable that there will be any birds in the forest. Of course, this is not necessarily the case. But there are so many people in China who dare to express their own opinions, and design is a very subjective thing. It is one thing to be recognized as a design work, whether it can be recognized by the market or it is a long-term development. It is another thing to do it as a brand, and see how you want to develop. I personally think that design must be talented, but talent is still very important for anything related to design and aesthetics. At the same time, the experience is also very important for the designer, which will make you more aware of yourself and stability. Every season, you know yourself differently. More and more young independent designers summed up the trade-off between design and brand: if you design, you will have a new understanding of each season and a new life. It is realized that the new season's works will inevitably differ from the previous season. But if you are a brand, it will be like gardening, taking the dross, trimming and adjusting to the market demand. Therefore, the brand can stick to the end and must be related to the experience and experience it has accumulated.
Q: We know that many designers have a hobby of collecting fabrics. I heard that you have high requirements for fabrics.
A: Yes, just like when I first started, many fabrics were back from London, so the price was fixed at that time. Later, I found that this is not a long-term solution. While ensuring the texture, it can also satisfy my consumer group, and slowly make some adjustments, so the general price is in the range of 1000-5000 yuan. I think it's really good to look at it. The big name may be the value of the brand itself. Everyone thinks it is such a price, and the designer's own brand of creativity and the difficulty of overcoming it are not less than they are. Need market support and encouragement.
In addition to comfort and uniqueness, fabrics are still very important. Most of my fabrics are imported from Japan. The development rate is high and the selection is high. Things that look the same, but practices, dyeing, and craftsmanship are much different. Good things are good. It is not that foreign things must be good, there will be good materials in the country, which is not necessarily related to the price. I think that the materials worn by girls should be based on comfort. There are some neutral things in the elements I designed. I want to make girls more sexy in this style. For example, a sexy halter top in a stiff motorcycle jacket conveys different flavors. What each brand of my brand presents is my understanding of women at every stage.
Q: What do you think of plagiarism?
A: Some time ago, I found out that my earring design was counterfeited. I was particularly unhappy at the time. You looked at the style very much, but when you look at it, you will find that the materials used are really bad. Later, some of them figured it out. It’s not your customer base. People who buy fake goods don’t buy real things. The budget that he might consume is like this, so I am somewhat relieved, and there is no consumer flow distortion. Say. For rights protection, I feel quite helpless now. China’s national situation is very difficult. You can only say that you are making more and more progress so that others can’t imitate it, or even imitation is just like a look. Therefore, it is important to find the right customer base and maintain it for a long time.
Q: At the 2016 Winter Fashion Week in Shanghai, you also participated in LABELHOOD. How do you view this emerging fashion presentation?
PRESENTATION itself is a relatively new form of expression. It is possible to arrange the space you want to express by your own ideas, and to be more subjective. So whether it is PRESENTATION or a show released by the work, it is a kind of propaganda for the designer. It will also play a subtle role in the selection of buyers at the order fair, so that they can A faster choice to you. I think this combination is indispensable.
Q: What is the dress under private?
A: In addition to my own clothing, I like to wear T-shirts, knit tops, loose pants, and sneakers. Recently we will also launch a new T-shirt series. I think the simple and relaxed clothes fit the summer theme. Women like to dress casually and casually, but it's hard to be careful, which is what I look at in design.
Q: Share your current or future plans.
A: Better development in business. It is possible to develop a foreign market next year. New products in the season will still be concentrated in the store, because the promotion in the store will be stronger. Jewelry and T-shirts will be sold online, which is roughly planned.
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