masha’s saint-germain dress
I absolutely fell head over heels for this dress the moment I saw the pattern envelope. The combination of the v-neck, the wrap design, the delicate buttons, and the ruched sleeves just spoke to me. It’s the kind of style that feels unique, something I hadn't come across before. The silhouette and those intricate details blend together to create a look that feels fresh and personal.
When it came to selecting my fabric, I knew drape was going to be key. I adore rayon for its flowy quality, but I was on the hunt for something a bit more substantial than your typical challis. Taking a gamble, I chose this rayon twill, hoping its twill weave would offer a touch more stability. As it turned out, I hit the jackpot—it's lightweight yet sturdy, and working with it was a breeze.
This dress required quite a bit of fitting attention. To start, I experimented with my paper pattern to figure out how extensive my full bust adjustment (FBA) needed to be. With a high bust measurement of 36 inches and a full bust of 40 inches, I decided to go with the 8D bodice grading down to a size 12 skirt. Even though the pattern offers cup sizes, I still needed to add 1 5/8 inches and include a bust dart during the FBA. I detailed the technique I used in our Saint-Germain Sew Along, which might help anyone looking to tackle this pattern.
Another challenge was dealing with the waistband piece while making these adjustments. For the back, I stuck with the size 8 waistband, but I widened the front size 8 waistband by the same amount I added to the bodice during the FBA. Then, I simply adjusted the pleats in my size 12 skirt to accommodate the new waistband dimensions.
Before cutting into my fabric, I made several additional adjustments on the paper pattern. I performed a 5/8 inch high round back adjustment, a 1/2 inch forward shoulder adjustment, and a 1 5/8 inch full bicep adjustment. These tweaks were essential to achieving a comfortable fit.
Afterward, I created a muslin version of the bodice. This mock-up proved invaluable, helping me realize I needed to remove a small wedge from the shoulder seams to prevent any neckline gapping. I removed 1/2 inch from the inner shoulder seam, gradually tapering toward the outer shoulder. Additionally, I divided the underbust pleats into two smaller pleats, which I felt better suited my body shape.
For the skirt, I extended the length by 2 inches to accommodate my 5'8" frame, and I'm thrilled with how well that adjustment worked out.
One minor issue I encountered was that my bust dart ended up slightly lower than expected, but overall, I'm extremely satisfied with the final fit. To ensure the neckline stayed securely in place, I added a hidden snap at the upper V overlap. I hand-stitched the snaps along the bias facing for added reinforcement without needing interfacing.
Sewing the dress itself was far less time-consuming than I anticipated. A smart move was crafting the neckline bias facing from cotton shirting rather than rayon twill. Through experience, I've learned I loathe working with rayon for such tasks, as it tends to ripple and require rework. The cotton provided the necessary stability, allowing me to complete the facing in one go without any mishaps.
Interestingly, my version of the dress has taken on a distinctly vintage feel, which wasn’t something I initially set out to achieve. It’s a style I don’t own already, so it’s become a delightful addition to my wardrobe. Have you tried sewing this dress?
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