masha’s saint-germain dress
The moment I laid eyes on the pattern envelope for this dress, I was smitten. The combination of the v-neckline, the wrap design, the buttons, and the ruched sleeves was exactly what I had in mind. The silhouette and intricate details give it a unique look that I hadn’t come across elsewhere.
When it came to selecting my fabric, drape was top priority. I went for rayon because of its flowy quality, but I was hoping for something slightly more substantial than your average challis. I decided to take a gamble on this rayon twill, thinking the twill weave might provide the stability I was looking for. It paid off—this fabric is both lightweight and drapes beautifully, yet it was still manageable to work with.
I put a lot of effort into getting the fit just right. To start, I performed a full bust adjustment (FBA) using my paper pattern. My measurements are 36"-40", and I used the 8D bodice graded to the size 12 skirt. The pattern offers cup sizes, but I still had to add 1 5/8 inches and include a bust dart during the FBA. I demonstrated the technique I used in our Saint-Germain Sew Along, which is available if you'd like to learn more about making this pattern.
While adjusting the fit, I also tackled the waistband. For the back, I cut the size 8 waistband, and for the front, I widened it by the same amount I added to the bodice in the FBA. I then adjusted the pleats in my size 12 skirt to match the new waistband dimensions.
Before moving to the muslin stage, I made several other adjustments to the paper pattern: a 5/8-inch high round back adjustment, a 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment, and a 1 5/8-inch full bicep adjustment.
Once I had the muslin ready, it helped me identify that I needed to remove a wedge from the shoulder seams to prevent neckline gaping. I took out 1/2 inch from the inner shoulder, gradually tapering to nothing at the outer shoulder. During this phase, I also divided the underbust pleats into two smaller ones, which I felt suited my figure better.
I extended the skirt by 2 inches to accommodate my 5'8" frame, and I think that adjustment hit the mark perfectly. However, my bust dart ended up being a tad lower than expected, but overall, I'm satisfied with how the dress fits.
To ensure the neckline stayed secure, I added a hidden snap at the upper V-overlap. I hand-stitched the snap through the bias facing for extra reinforcement without relying on interfacing.
Sewing the dress wasn’t as time-consuming as I anticipated. Using cotton shirting for the neckline bias facing saved me a lot of hassle. Unlike rayon twill, the cotton provided added stability, allowing me to sew the facing only once without any issues of rippling or needing to re-do it.
Interestingly, my version of the dress has taken on a vintage feel, which I wasn't expecting. Since I don't own anything similar in my wardrobe, it's become a cherished addition. Have you ever sewn this dress?
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