Silk: subvert the "flashy" law
Hu Zhanli, a professor at the Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology, recalls the memory of his grandmother, who was once a silk cocoon producer. His storytelling is as enchanting as a fairy tale, filled with vivid imagery and warmth. In the Jiangnan Water Village, 18 looms hummed with life, weaving dragon-like carpets and delicate silk threads that brought out the luxurious beauty of silk. While silk is often associated with elegance and glamour, it is far more than just a decorative fabric.
Silk is not only beautiful but also highly functional. It can be used to make clothing, jewelry, silk yarn, and even non-woven fabrics. Its versatility allows for both thick and thin applications—thick silk can be used for quilts, while thin silk can be engineered into artificial blood vessels. This makes silk both luxurious and practical, defying the common "flashy" stereotype. The China Silk Association's annual meeting highlights the vast variety of silk products, even though the total global silk production remains under 150,000 tons each year. Most of this is used for silk quilts, with only a small portion going into traditional silk fabrics.
Despite its limited volume, the diversity of silk fabrics is astonishing. They are categorized into 15 major types, including plain weave, crepe, satin, brocade, and velvet, among others. Each category has unique characteristics. For instance, crepe fabrics have a wrinkled texture due to special weaving techniques, while satin offers a smooth and shiny surface. There are also plain fabrics, which feature simple patterns, and floral fabrics, which include intricate designs ranging from small motifs to large floral prints. Additionally, silk fabrics can be classified as raw or cooked, depending on whether they are dyed before or after weaving.
Beyond these classifications, silk has a rich cultural history that dates back over 7,000 years—longer than China’s recorded civilization. Sericulture has been an unbroken tradition, flowing like a river through time. Throughout this long history, various silk crafts have played a crucial role in bringing the beauty of silk to life. From embroidery styles such as Hunan embroidery, Sichuan embroidery, and Suzhou double-sided embroidery, to the exquisite art of Miao embroidery and European cashmere embroidery, each region has developed its own distinct style.
In modern times, technology continues to enhance the value of silk. Innovations include health-focused silk fabrics, elastic yarn-dyed silks, and high-tech derivatives used in medical fields. Today, silk is even used to create artificial blood vessels, burn treatment skin substitutes, and biodegradable sutures. As Hu Zhanli reflects, silk is not just a material—it is a legacy, a symbol of culture, and a testament to human creativity.
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